Information

How to Train Your Beginner Horse


Since I was a little girl my passion, after writing, has been horses. Learning and sharing everything I know with you here. Happy Trails!

There are as many ways to train a horse as there are horse breeds. You have to choose which one you feel would work best for you. Then you should study it, learn it and use it.

Terms to Know: Colt vs. Foal vs. Filly

I have noticed, to my chagrin, that filly, foal and colt are used interchangeably when someone is talking about young horses. I'll be using these terms throughout the article, so I'd like to define them.

Each identifies a specific characteristic, except foal:

  • A foal is a young horse (baby horse) of either sex.
  • A filly is a young female horse.
  • A colt is a young male horse.

Filly and colt are not interchangeable; they are distinct labels. While we are on the subject, there are a few other labels I have noticed people are using indiscriminately. They are:

  • Stud: A stud is a fully intact adult male horse (still has testicles).
  • Gelding: A gelding is a horse that had his testicles surgically removed.
  • Proud-cut: Proud-cut refers to a male horse that was geld after he figured out he was a male (usually this happens when the stud is geld after 2 years of age), or the gelding procedure was not complete (reproductive organs producing testosterone left behind), so he is still technically a stud. He will display stud behavior but usually cannot reproduce. I say usually, because occasionally enough testosterone-producing matter is left behind to produce sperm. Then you may come across the geld horse that retained a testicle and is still a stud.

Start Training as Soon as Possible

If you are looking forward to a horse ready to ride when it's two, then start at day one. A foal should not bear the weight of an adult person until it is mature for any reason. Maturity is two years old.

If your horse is heading for the competition world like endurance racing (endurance horses race over a large expanse of land, usually at a fast trot), three or four years old would be preferable.

You want your horse to be sound for many years to come. The horse simply isn't strong enough to hold a significant amount of weight until they are at least two years old. For an endurance prospect, you'll want to wait until they are four. But that doesn't mean you should wait until then to start your training!

Training Schedule

AgeAppropriate Training

Birth ~ 1 year

Halter, Tie, Lead, Groom

1 ~ 2 years

Intro to bit, Saddle, Long line

2 ~ 3

Reinforce long line, Mount

Imprinting the Foal

When your foal is born, you want to be sure you are there for imprinting. Imprinting takes place within the first few minutes of birth.

Situate yourself front and center, without crowding the dam. You're going to imprint like the dam does. When the foal emerges from its mother and she has begun the cleaning process, you begin your touching process.

Always allow the mare to do her job. She knows what she's doing. When she licks the foals to help remove the placenta, it stimulates blood circulation in the foal. If she chooses to eat the placenta, let her, but take a good look at it to make sure she passed the entire placenta. Eating the placenta is how she protects her and her foal from predators. Plus, it's full of nutrients she can use after giving birth.

Starting from either end, touch every last inch of the foal. Let your hands glide:

  • up the leg over the rump
  • down the tail
  • back up to the rump
  • down the other leg
  • around the belly
  • over the back
  • back down the front legs to each little hoof
  • back up the legs to the chest
  • up to the neck
  • up to the ears
  • down its face to its lips, which may try to suckle any nearby fingers!

The baby will try to stand soon after birth. Complete your imprinting before the foal tries to rise. He will need plenty of room to get those legs underneath him, and he's gonna be wobbly.

You could be run into or run over, so be done and out of the way. Resist the temptation to help. They've been doing this for thousands of years. Let nature take its course—let him try. He can do it!

Halter

Within the first day or two, you'll want to put a halter on the foal. They have halters in foal sizes. The foal needs to get used to this piece of equipment because it is going to be on him for a large amount of time during his life.

With assistance, you should be able to slip the halter onto the foal's nose and set the buckle. Take your time. Haltering is a lifelong lesson, so make it a positive one if possible. Leave the halter on.

When you feed the mare, it will be a good time for imprinting. The foal will be right at her side all the time these first few weeks, so use the opportunity to run your hands over the foal. Show him the brush and curry comb, etc. Don't try to grab the halter to get the foal to come to you or stay at this point. The foal has no idea why you have grabbed it and will very easily rip it out of your hands.

We'll deal with respecting the halter next.

Lead Line

The lead line is one of the most basic parts of horsemanship. It gets little notoriety for such an important job. The lead line is how we direct the horse. The horse must respect the lead line and stop when requested and follow at a nice distance when requested by a tug.

  1. To start the relationship with the foal and the lead line, first clip a lead line to his halter. Let him wear it around while at pasture with his dam. The lead line should drag on the ground but not several feet behind. It should be where he can step on it periodically.
  2. When he accidentally steps on the lead line, he will soon figure out that he must stop to relieve the pulling on his face.
  3. Essentially, he is teaching himself to stop when the lead is pulled on. It shouldn't take more than a few days, if that.

Tying

By the end of the first week, start thinking of a tall tree you could tie a lead to. The foal needs to learn to tie, now, before he's big enough to hurt himself resisting.

  1. Take your lead rope and tie it to a tree that is higher than his head. This is important because if the lead is say, at eye level or lower, the foal can really dig his feet in to resist being tied and hurt himself, or strain himself. At worst, he may be able to pull hard enough that he breaks the lead, and that's not what you want! If he is able to pull and break the lead, he just taught himself, "I can get out of this if I pull hard enough."
  2. So be sure the limb is above his head, yet not so high that he has to raise his head; he should be able to have his head in a comfortable position but not low enough to graze.
  3. Now step away. If the dragging lead line training went well, then he will realize, in short order, that pulling is fruitless.
  4. Do expect a good hearty pull at first. Maybe some head swinging, but as long as he isn't harming himself (i.e. banging his head into the tree, or getting tangled in the lead because it was too long), he will be fine and the worst is over.
  5. Leave him tied for about fifteen minutes. Never try to approach him if he is in the middle of a fit. Wait until he calms down.
  6. Do this everyday until when you tie him and walk away he stands quietly. This can take several days, but not more than three or four.

Introducing the Bit

When your foal has mastered leading, it's time to move onto introducing the bit. A snaffle bit is what is recommend to start your foal with. It's considered a milder bit, making it good for starting. Personally, I know any bit can be severe, including the snaffle. The first bit won't have reins attached, so the level of severity is mute. Whether a curb, bar, or snaffle, severity is not the issue with the first bit.

  1. When you have your foal in an arena, put the headstall with the bit on but not the reins.
  2. Like the halter, let your foal play with it for a while. Let him walk around the arena, licking and experiencing the bit.
  3. Do this several days in a row until he is comfortable with it in his mouth, then you can move on. You will know he is comfortable because he will no longer focus on the bit by licking and mouthing the bit. You will be able to put it in his mouth and he will not care.
  4. Moving on means attaching reins and long lining. This is where the severity of a bit will come into play. If you tend to have a heavy hand, use a low port or one without a port at all. Using a snaffle does not relieve you of the responsibility of using a light hand. Consider a straight bar if you have a heavy hand.
  5. At this tender stage, any movement on a bit will be noticed by your horse. This is when you are going to set his tolerance on a bit. Hard, heavy, cues will make the horse sour about his bit and callouses will form in his mouth, making ignoring your commands easier and easier over time. A hard yank, or pull further than necessary, will make the bit something hurtful in your horse's mind.
  6. Light, consistent, cues are optimum. When your horse responds to light pressure on the rein, you are teaching him that you won't harm his mouth when he responds. This horse will look forward to the bit as a time he wants to spend with you because there is no pain.

When I introduce the bit, from day one I use the rein to cue a turn. When I place the left rein on his neck, he turns to the right. If I place the right rein on his neck, he turns to the left. This is neck reining from the get-go. The bit is never even engaged.

Saddling

For the saddle, let him see it, be near it, and get familiar with it. Some people will leave the saddle in the paddock or on the rail for a week prior to saddling the foal just for the purpose of reducing his fear of it.

When you choose to saddle your foal, take the saddle pad and starting at his head, rub the saddle pad along his neck, sides and rump. This way he knows it is nothing to fear.

Lay it on his back. Lay the saddle on his back. Set him out in the arena to see if he wants to try and get it off his back. Some will have a bucking fit and others will pad around the arena bored with it.

Long Lines

When your foal is comfortable with the saddle and bridle, it's time for the long lines. Essentially this involves using two reins that are light weight and about 20 ft long each.

The long lines allow you to walk behind or to the side of your horse. I'm a big fan of long lines for their versatility. Walking behind the horse you instill confidence in them when they must walk out forwards when asked to from behind. He will learn to be confident walking forward alone (with your encouragement from behind). You can use the long lines to guide his body when turning and bending. This will also aid in training for carting if this is in your future. The long lines leading from the bridle along his body, back to you simulates a cart and driving lines. Feeling the soft lines against his legs and side will help get him used to the feel so when you put the steel poles of a cart along his body he will already be used to something running along his legs and side.

Walking next to your horse with the long lines encourages the walk out confidence as well as turning and side passing. At his side you have access to his body for administering side pressure as well as forward motion.

The first time using long lines you may need assistance. The young horse is used to following his dam, or herd. Walking out in front of you is completely foreign to him. Until he builds trust in you, and confidence in himself, you may need someone to lead him forward when you are behind him and request forward motion. One he moves forward on command you don't need an assistant anymore.

You can basically complete your ground training with long lines and when he turns three take your seat in the saddle!!

Questions & Answers

Question: At what age should I start tying my foal?

Answer: Have you halter trained it yet? There are specific steps that are all separate to achieve the desired goal: a horse that can be tied.

Halter training is first. This is as early as day two or three. Make very certain the halter adjusts or have several sizes on hand because the foal grows so rapidly at this early age you never want the halter to become tight. Next is the lead line lesson. It should be left on during the day under supervision while the foal gets used to it dragging on the ground, being stepped on and such. Then, after a few weeks the tying lesson. Make sure you tie the rope high enough that the foal cannot get a good pull on it. A foot above their head is wise. The earlier you start teaching this basic lesson the better.

Question: How would I start to lunge my horse?

Answer: The first lunge uses a lead line so you won't get all tangled in the long lunge lines most often used. Plus, you'll have better control of your horse with a short lead line the first few times. Hold the lead line out to your side, arms straight out on either side. This is the direction you want your horse to go. With a crop in the other hand encourage your horse to move forward. When he or she moves forward move the arm that is straight out back while you turn with it. Is that is clear? Keep moving in a circle with your arm that is straight out leading the horse and using the crop to encourage forward motion. It's a little tricky the first few times so have patience. The problem most people develop with lunging is either lunging in one direction or one direction more than the other. The horse needs to be lunged in both directions for balance and correct muscle tone. One other thing, don't get "behind" the horse while lunging. When you start using the long lunge lines, you should be able to draw a straight line from the horse's shoulder to you and another straight line from you to the crop encouraging the horse. It should look like a V if you could look down on yourself from the sky.

Question: What if you have desensitized your horse too much?

Answer: If your horse fears nothing, then it is up to you to protect him from the environment in which he lives.

Question: How many times have you trained horses?

Answer: How many times have I trained a horse to do tricks? Fourteen. I teach all my horses to do these tricks because they are a good foundation training. It builds trust and compliance between me and my horse.

Question: How do I get my horse used to water?

Answer: I'm assuming you mean walking or wading in water right? Depending on how much the horse fears water it may not be a good idea to make him go in it. Most horses will gladly walk into water especially at a beach, or creek, where there's no step-down when they can just walk forward and right into it. Often, they will walk into it and begin pawing at the water causing a lot of splashing! If you're out riding at a lake, or large creek, just walk your horse towards the water and guide him or her into it as if you're going to ride straight across to the other side. If you sit your seat as usual and just walk on in he or she will probably enjoy it. Horses are not like cats; they enjoy water and swimming. They are accomplished swimmers!

Question: Can I lounge my foal/colt without a lunge rope because that's what I do with the rest of my horses?

Answer: Yes, you can lounge your foal/colt without a lounge line. You will eventually want to use a lounge line to advance him in his groundwork. Without a lounge line, you can only get so far in your training. The training provided would be similar to a run in the pasture for him. Focus on conveying your body gestures to him IE: Your squared shoulders toward him should give him pressure to move on. You stepping slightly into his path should tell him to turn and go the other direction. These are basic respect responses you need to instill in him. Things like that can be gained.

Question: How should I imprint myself when beginning to train my horse?

Answer: Can you provide further details such as what you're looking to imprint upon? A foal is your best option for imprinting. For example: When a foal is born, you are right there with the mare. You never take the mare's job away of caring for her foal, but when she's done and got him/her up on their feet, you be there and touch the foal everywhere from forelock to fetlock! Imprinting is teaching the animal that you can be trusted completely.

Joanna (author) from Wilseyville on August 02, 2014:

Hi Ariel-Cal,

Thank you for stopping by to read. Therapy work with horses and children sounds cool. Good Luck to you on hubpages!

Evelia Veronica Rivera from Bridgeport, CT on July 31, 2014:

Msmillar- I do not but it should an interesting read. I have done therapy work with horses and children but I am interested in reading your hubs!

Joanna (author) from Wilseyville on July 27, 2014:

Thank you Areil-Cal. I'm glad to hear it's helpful, that motivates me! I've started writing about carting that should be interesting. Do you do any carting? My hub is all the way from getting a cart to carting down the street with your pony/horse.

Evelia Veronica Rivera from Bridgeport, CT on July 21, 2014:

Great info

briars2roses from Texas on July 18, 2012:

So true... thank u.. name is cause I hope that thru all the bad in my life, that the briars are being removed and I am becoming a rose. I understand that a horse is strong, big... but it bothers me to see a 14 hands high horse (even grown) carry a really large person. What you said in relationship to age is exactly right. Just because a horse is 800 does not mean it should have 200-300 on it's back quite so soon.

Joanna (author) from Wilseyville on July 17, 2012:

Hi briars2roses! I love your screen name. I think sometimes people see a horse that's so big that it must be able to carry a human. In reality a two year old foal is like a ten yr old kid right! They wouldn't put a man on a ten yr old human, lol.

briars2roses from Texas on July 12, 2012:

Amen on mentioning the differences and also pointing out the age... I don't even like a lot of weight on a 2 year old...


Black Desert Mobile Pets And Horses Guide: Everything You Need To Know About Obtaining And Managing Companions

Black Desert Mobile continues to have a growing number of players and fans much like its predecessors have and beyond the graphics and all audio-visual qualities it possesses, the broadness of what it offers as far as gaming experience is concerned stands as its most immersive aspect. Beyond the plethora of skills and customizations Black Desert Mobile offers for each character class, there are numerous other activities to engage in that does not involve combat, and while these life activities in addition to the perks you can get for establishing your base camp, there are very helpful buffs you can obtain from your animal companions.

If you have just started playing Black Desert Mobile and still learning the ropes of the game’s mechanics and numerous features, be sure to read our Black Desert Mobile beginner’s guide as it gives you a quick and simple rundown of the basics you need to familiarize yourself with as well as some tips and strategies to jumpstart your adventure.

Not sure which class to pick? Don’t worry as we have you covered on that as well with our Black Desert Mobile class guide. If you have progressed enough to unlock your base camp and eventually the Node Manager mode, you can learn everything you need to know about both features in our camp management guide and our node manager guide.

Although you will have plenty of resources to enhance your hero early on, there is no wrong time to start grinding for more. You can check our Black Desert Mobile farming guide to help you gather more of the resources you need efficiently.

In this new Black Desert Mobile guide, we will be focusing entirely on the pets and mounts you take with you to battle. While the horse’s faster travel speed and the pets’ innate ability to pick up items are invaluable on their own, both pets and horses can acquire a wide variety of skills to help you in combat as well as well as other aspects of the game. A lot of players may not tend to these companions enough and be simply content with the outright perks they receive from simply having them around. With some effort, you can get a huge boost from both types of companions and the sooner you build them to your liking, the better it will be for you moving forward.

1. Acquiring Pets And Basic Care

While the rest of the methods available to acquire a new pet are rather expensive, progressing far enough through the main story quests guarantees to net you at least 3 free ones. For the most part, though, these will be tier 1 pets and will only have a skill available and pick up loot every a minute and 45 seconds. Pets will continue to be around, earn experience points and gain new levels so long as they are well fed. As such, your main responsibility to your pets is ensuring that you regularly spend time to feed them.

As you head into any town, you can tap on the cow icon at the upper left side of your screen. This will enable auto-pathing towards the shop that sells pet food (or poor feed as termed in the game) and purchase as many as you can comfortably carry. You can easily access the pets window by clicking on any of your pets’ icons at the left side of your screen or via the menu button and then selecting “pets”. On the pet window you can tap on the pet food icon below each pet to feed them once, or tick the check box to feed them till they are full. Keep in mind that hungry pets will act as if they are not around, so if you forget to feed them then the buffs they provide as well as the auto-loot help that they do for you will not be in effect.

If you want additional pets, you should frequently visit the market via the main menu. This is the place to purchase any item being sold by other players using silver. Most of the time, though, you will find that there are no available pets registered. Whenever there are, they get purchased pretty fast but just the same, you can try your luck and hope to snatch one quick. If you have 400 black pearls to spare, you can also purchase a tier 1 pet chest via the pearl shop, which you can access through the gold coin icon at the top of your screen, once a week.

2. Train Your Pets Continuously

On top of feeding, you should continuously train your pets until their skills reach a max level of 10. Their buffs and performance will not be impacted while they are on training. Each succeeding training session costs more silver and takes a lot more time. The only penalty for training pets is that you will not be able to exchange them while they are training. You can spend stamina to automatically finish the training session.

Tier 1 pets like the ones you obtain for free will only have 1 skill available. Regardless of what your pet is, the random skill they come with comes from the same pool, which means that all types of basic pets can have any of the available skills in the game. For the most part, the buff they provide relate to an increase in EXP gained. It could be for combat, dark energy for your black spirit, knowledge gain, or any of the life skills you can partake in outside of combat.

A pet may also come with a boost to your character’s weight capacity. These skills improve based on their skill level so training continuously is a must if you want to have the most out of these buffs.

3. Exchange If You Have More Than 3 Pets

Having a pet at max level and max skill level of 10, respectively, should be fairly easy enough to achieve and at some point in your progress you would naturally want more out of each companion. As you can only have 3 pets out with you in the field, it should only be a part of natural progression to exchange them once you have more than 3 available. This can easily be done via the exchange tab in the pet window.

Exchanging pets is a 2-for-1 process, with two pets within the same tier for a that has a chance of being on a higher tier. Take note that you can only exchange pets when both are at home and not undergoing training. As the new pet can retain the appearance and skill of either one, be sure to choose wisely. You can go with the appearance of pet 1 and retain the skill of pet 2. Levels of the pets exchanged do not affect the level and tier of the pet you will receive.

However, selected skill prior to the exchange will stay at the same level. Assuming that you are fortunate enough to obtain a higher tier pet from the exchange, a new skill will become available for you to train. Item pick-up speed will also increase by 5 seconds.

4. Obtaining Horses

Horses are currently the exclusive mounts in Black Desert Mobile. While you will surely obtain one or a couple by progressing through main quests, there are numerous opportunities to earn more horses to work your way towards getting a much better one. Beyond boosting travel speed, horses also exhibit buffs and skills that will greatly help you on your adventure. As such, while it is easy to be contented with whichever ones you get without effort, taming horses and breeding them should form part of your objectives if you want to become even more formidable. First things first, though, you have to learn how to tame horses in the wild and part of that feat requires patience and determination.

Before you proceed to hunt for wild horses, be sure that you have enough space for them in your stable. Once there is enough room back at your base camp, the next things to prepare are your taming items. Again, visit the shop in any town that sells animal needs. You should grab some horse taming ropes and raw sugar to boost chances of taming horses. Now to look for specific areas with wild horses, you need to check the world map via the main menu and check regions for horse location. An example would be Karanda Bridge within the Neutral Border Zone. Once you proceed to that map, you will be able to see horse icon in the minimap at the upper left side of your screen.

Now comes the challenging part. When you see the horse, you should approach it slowly and do not get too close. At about 10 meters, you will begin to see the taming rope icon appear. Tap on it to initiate the capture mini game. You will slowly approach the horse intermittently and stop whenever it raises its front legs. Once you are close enough, you can either tap the capture button or feed the horse some sugar. Take note that two numbers will appear below the horse. For example, if you see 40/80%, it means you currently have 40% chance of taming the horse but by using sugar, you can raise it by 10% per feed up to a maximum of 80%. The maximum taming percentage reflects the horse’s tier. 90% for tier 1, 80% for tier 2 and so on.

If you fail to ride the horse, you will have to wrestle it into submission. You will see a circle move along a horizontal line and you have to move the circle to the green area using the virtual d-pad when the timer runs out. You need to do this 3 times to succeed. More effectively, tapping up and down rapidly works much better than holding the up and down directions. Once you succeed, you will be prompted to name your new mount and you will find it within your stable when you visit your camp.

As a bonus tip, bring more than enough of both the taming rope and sugar as you may go through several attempts on your first go before you achieve success. Both items do not cost that much and are not heavy anyway so having more than enough instead of having to go back to the shop is a lot more convenient.

5. Levelling Up And Breeding Horses

By default, and even at the base tier and level, horses provide you with faster travel speed along with additional item slots and weight capacity. On top of these incentives, horses have bond skills that offer buffs as well as a horse skill which may help in combat or make the horse itself have a better performance. While you can very much be happy with whichever skills you obtain so long as you own a mount, spending a little more time to enhance your horse can give you a lot more benefits. Take note that as the horse’s tier increases, so too does every bit of benefit it gives you. As such, you should always aim to get a top tier horse, or horses that serve different purposes at a later time.

For starters, actually using your horse to travel around the world will earn it experience points. Horses have a max level of 10 just like pets, so it is fairly easy to get them to that level. The more challenging part comes from raising a horse’s tier as you cannot achieve that with a single horse. More so, you can only do that once you have a stable and maxed out horses of the same tier.

To initiate breeding horses, simply visit your camp, tap on your stable and choose manage. You will be at the horses’ window and you can see the breed tab. You can only select 2 horses of the same tier in that tab and both should be at level 10. Suppose you choose 2 tier 1 horses, you are guaranteed to receive a tier 2 horse. Do note that horses in Black Desert Mobile do not have gender so it is a lot more convenient for breeding compared to the PC and mobile version. The horse you acquire from breeding will have an appearance based on your choosing but unfortunately, both bond and horse skills will be random. At the most, a tier 5 horse will have a bond skill and 4 horse skills.

With this in mind, it is best to grab and level up as many horses as you can for breeding, saving the one with the best skills for your personal use until you successfully breed another. Suppose you have a full stable with 6 tier 1 horses. You should try and max 4 of them out and have two tier 2 horses. If one of the tier 2 horses is better than the tier 1 you are using, then you should breed the remaining tier 1 horses. Otherwise, push through with leveling up the tier 2 horses and then breed them for tier 3. With new slots available in your stable, it’s back to the wild to tame some more, then rinse and repeat.

Being able to secure a tier 5 horse is challenging enough. With random skills that come as a result of breeding, chances are that you will not entirely get the tier 5 horse with the exact skills you want. Fortunately, horses in Black Desert Mobile can change their skills but this will require a change skill coupon, which can be bought using pearls or earned from special events. As such, you should save these items for when you already have a tier 5 horse. You can simply tap on the change skill option at the horse page. As bond skills influence attack, defense, critical rate, HP, or MP recovery the best one in general is an attack buff. This would still depend on what you need more for your character.

As far as the horse’s skills go, packhorse, which boosts weight limit is a top pick along with enhance bonding as it increases the buff it provides by 20%. Fast Learner is only good for horses that you want to rush to level 10.

And that sums up everything we have for you as far as our Black Desert Mobile pets and horses guide is concerned. As new updates continue to roll in, expect some enhanced effects to come to your furry companions in the game. For now, though, you should continue and push both your pets and your mount to their limit as when these updates come, it will be another level of grind. If you have some additional tips or strategies you would like to share relative to pets and mounts in Black Desert Mobile or if you have some questions about anything we discussed, you can always drop us a line in the comment area below!


Dominance

In a herd the horse lives in a hierarchy and each individual has his place in the pecking order. This provides clarity and peace in the group. But the position in the pecking order can differ whereas the context changes. So when all horses are very hungry some specific pecking order can be visible, but when the horses are not hungry you’ll see another pecking order.

A lot of people think that the stallion is the most dominant horse in the herd, but he may even be number 3 or 4 in the dominance hierarchy, if there are a few dominant mares. This becomes clear if there is only a small pool of water available for drinking, then the highest ranked horse will drink first, then the second, then the stallion and then nummer 4,5,6,7,8.

Being the most dominant horse has very little to do with power and strength. Usually a wise, older, mare is the most dominant horse in the herd, even when she is not the strongest! Also little Shetland ponies can rule over a big horse, because of their confidence and attitude.

So dominance has nothing to do with size or gender and it has also nothing to do with aggression in the horse world. Because agression would create fear and confusion, which makes the herd unstable and vulnerable. A dominant horse will be dominant, only because the other horses feel dependent upon this horse for safety so they will never stand in the way or hurt this horse.


How to Teach a Horse to Bow

Last Updated: October 29, 2020 References

This article was co-authored by Kate Jutagir. Kate Jutagir is an Equestrian Specialist, Hunter/Jumper Trainer, and the Owner of Blackhound Equestrian, a premier training barn located on 65 acres in Castro Valley, California. Originally designed to be a riding school used as a springboard for dedicated students into careers in the sport, Blackhound Equestrian has grown into a hunter/jumper training program for all levels focusing on providing a solid foundation needed for personal advancement in the sport. Kate has over 25 years of equestrian instruction and training experience. Her focus on developing horse and rider partnerships provides a complete equestrian education for both beginners and advanced riders alike.

There are 13 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page.

This article has been viewed 117,739 times.

A horse bows by kneeling on one leg, extending the other leg in front of it, and lowering its head to the ground. This is a relatively easy trick to teach, requiring little in terms of equipment or expertise. After preparing supplies and a suitable practice space, you should use treats to encourage the horse to first bow its head, then kneel to the ground. You can then begin removing treats from the exercise, teaching the horse to perform the trick on command.


How to Train a Horse

Last Updated: September 7, 2020 References Approved

This article was co-authored by Kate Jutagir. Kate Jutagir is an Equestrian Specialist, Hunter/Jumper Trainer, and the Owner of Blackhound Equestrian, a premier training barn located on 65 acres in Castro Valley, California. Originally designed to be a riding school used as a springboard for dedicated students into careers in the sport, Blackhound Equestrian has grown into a hunter/jumper training program for all levels focusing on providing a solid foundation needed for personal advancement in the sport. Kate has over 25 years of equestrian instruction and training experience. Her focus on developing horse and rider partnerships provides a complete equestrian education for both beginners and advanced riders alike.

There are 21 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page.

wikiHow marks an article as reader-approved once it receives enough positive feedback. In this case, several readers have written to tell us that this article was helpful to them, earning it our reader-approved status.

This article has been viewed 140,231 times.

Training your horse can be challenging, but it’s also a rewarding experience. Start by teaching your horse to ground-drive, which means leading from behind while you’re on the ground. This is an excellent way to teach them to move (called impulsion in horse training). To begin training your horse for dressage, make sure to take a flexible approach. Each horse is different, so be responsive to your horse’s skills and moods. [1] X Expert Source

Kate Jutagir
Equestrian Specialist & Trainer Expert Interview. 31 March 2020. Most importantly, bond with your horse so that you are both comfortable working together.


Watch the video: How To Do Liberty Training With Your Horse For Beginners (October 2021).